Dripping tap: cartridge vs washer (what to check first)
Quick answer
Whether you need a cartridge or a washer to fix a dripping tap depends on the tap type — quarter or half-turn taps usually use a ceramic cartridge, while taps that need several turns to close typically use a compression washer. Identifying which you have, and isolating the water first, are the key first steps. If you’re unsure about parts or the tap is seized, a plumber can take it from there.
Safety first
- If you plan to touch pipework, isolate the water first (local isolation valves or stopcock).
- If the tap is seized/corroded, forcing it can crack the body or snap fixings.
- If you can’t isolate water confidently, stop and get help.
Full checklist: Safety guidance
What you may notice
- The tap only needs a quarter or half turn to open and close — suggests a ceramic cartridge tap, where wear in the cartridge is a common cause of dripping.
- The tap needs several full turns to close fully — suggests a traditional compression tap, where the washer or valve seat is the more likely cause.
- The drip comes from the spout — may point to the internal seal — cartridge or washer, depending on tap type.
- The leak is around the handle or base rather than the spout — this can suggest worn O-rings or a gland seal, which is a different fix from the spout drip.
These are possible explanations, not a confirmed diagnosis. An engineer can confirm the exact cause on inspection.
Safe checks to make, in order
- Check handle movement: quarter/half-turn (ceramic cartridge) vs many turns (compression).
- Identify where it leaks: from spout (internal seal) vs around handle/base (O-rings/gland).
- Find local isolation valves under the sink/basin (small valves on the pipes).
- If it’s a ceramic tap: note the brand/model if visible; cartridges vary.
- If it’s compression: note whether it’s hot/cold side and if the drip stops when you slightly open/close (seal seating clue).
- Take photos and measurements before ordering parts (cartridge length/diameter, spline/handle type).
What you can do safely
- Check whether the tap is quarter-turn or multi-turn, as that hints at cartridge versus washer.
- Isolate the water supply before dismantling anything.
- Note whether the drip happens from the spout, base, or handles.
- Take clear photos of the tap before removing parts.
When to call a professional
- No isolation valves and stopcock is inaccessible/stuck.
- Tap is seized/corroded or leaks worsen when disturbed.
- You’re unsure about identifying parts or reassembly.
What to tell the engineer
- Which of the checks above you carried out, and what you found at each step.
- Roughly when the problem started and whether it’s constant, intermittent, or linked to specific conditions (e.g. only when heating runs, only in cold weather).
- Any fault code, unusual noise, or visible sign you noticed.
- Whether the issue affects one fixture/radiator or several.
FAQs
Can I fix a dripping tap myself?
Many homeowners do replace a washer or cartridge themselves, provided they can isolate the water and correctly identify the part needed. Taking clear photos before you start, including the handle type and any visible model markings, helps a lot if you need to order parts or ask for help.
Why do I need to know if it’s a cartridge or washer tap?
The two use different internal parts, so knowing which type you have avoids buying the wrong replacement. Quarter-turn handles are the quickest visual clue.
What if I can’t isolate the water to the tap?
If there are no local isolation valves and your stopcock is hard to access, it’s safer to get a plumber to do the repair rather than working on a tap you can’t properly isolate.
Is a dripping tap urgent?
It’s not usually an emergency, but a constant drip can waste a surprising amount of water over time, so it’s worth fixing reasonably promptly.
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